Fashion: Cultural Heritage and the Made in

Autori

  • Luz Neira García Independent Researcher

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/8222

Parole chiave:

Made in, Fashion Culture, Museology, Fashion Exhibitions, Fashion Heritage

Abstract

In the last twenty years, fashion has been the main leitmotiv to more than 200 exhibitions in European museums. The rise of fashion exhibitions is linked with the recognition of the economic importance of fashion culture, which has been interpreted as cultural heritage by our society. Thus, despite the relevance of the aesthetical dimension of fashion artefacts and images, fashion exhibitions highlight the “Made in” discourse of fashion — the narrative about the capacity for creating, producing and circulating fashion cultures —, to connect artefacts and people. This article selected several European fashion exhibitions as examples, and it was possible to discuss some discursive strategies to transform the fashion culture in cultural heritage. The intention is to demonstrate that the heritagization process of fashion is based on the exploration of the fashion system and not limited to the visual and material aspects of fashion products.

Riferimenti bibliografici

Ashworth, Gregory John. “From history to heritage–from heritage to identity. In search of concepts and models.” In Building a New Heritage. Tourism, Culture and Identity in the New Europe, edited by Gregory John Ashworth, 13–30. London and New York: Routledge, 1994.

Bendix, Regina. “Heritage between economy and politics. An assessment from the perspective of cultural anthropology.” In Intangible Heritage, edited by Laurajane Smith and Natsuko Akagawa, 253–69. London-New York: Routledge, 2009.

Burke, Peter. The Italian renaissance: Culture and society in Italy. Cambridge: Princeton Press, 2014.

Calanca, Daniela. “Conservação e valorização do patrimônio da moda. O papel social da pós-história.” Visualidades 11, n. 1, (2013): 99–107.

Costume Society. “Diana: Her Fashion Story (Part 1).” Accessed January 20, 2018. http://costumesociety.org.uk/blog/post/diana-her-fashion-story.

Dazed & Confused Magazine. “Scandinavian Invasion.” Accessed January 7, 2018. http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/15696/1/scandinavian-invasion.

Focus on Belgium. “Rik Wouters & the Private Utopia.” Accessed January 11, 2018. http://focusonbelgium.be/en/events/rik-wouters-private-utopia.

Folkwang Museum. “Karl Lagerfeld.” Accessed January 6, 2018. https://www.museum-folkwang.de/en/news/exhibitions/archive/karl-lagerfeld.html.

Fontaine, Alexia. “Conditions d’émergence et développement des collections vestimentaires: patrimonialisation, muséalisation, virtualisation: regards croisés en France - Canada -Québec (XIXe-XXIe siècle).” PhD diss., Université Charles de Gaulle - Lille III, 2016.

HG Issue. “Karl Lagerfeld and his parallel contrasts.” Accessed January 6, 2018. http://www.hgissue.com/new/karl-lagerfeld-and-his-parallel-contrasts-exhibition-at-the-folkwang-museum-essen-germany/.

Itsliquid. “Rik Wouters & the Private Utopia at MOMU.” Accessed January 11, 2018. http://www.itsliquid.com/rik-wouters-the-private-utopia.html.

Lebrun, Barbara. “Daughter of the Mediterranean, docile European: Dalida in the 1950s,” Journal of European Popular Culture 4, n. 1, (2013): 85–97.

Marchetti, Luca. “Fashion curating in the fields of design: Issues in theory and practice.” In Acts of 11th European Academy of Design Conference: The Value of Design Research, 1–16, 2015.

Meneses, Ulpiano. “Fontes visuais, cultura visual, História visual. Balanço provisório, propostas cautelares.” Revista Brasileira de História 23, n. 45, (2003): 11–36.

Miller, Daniel. “Introduction.” In Clothing as material culture, edited by Susanne Kchler and Daniel Miller, 1–20. New York: Berg, 2005.

Miller, David and Sundas Ali. “Testing the national identity argument.” European Political Sience Review 6, n. 2, (2014): 237–59.

Oltre Pistoia. “Officina Pratese. Tessuti del Rinascimento Italiano.”Accessed December 1, 2017. http://www.oltrepistoia.it/scoprire-il-territorio/prato/arte/mostre/82-officina-pratese-tessuti-del-rinascimento-italiano.html.

Pallais Galliera. “Dalida, une Garde-Robe de la Ville à la Scène.” Acessed January 20, 2018. http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/dalida-une-garde-robe-de-la-ville-la-scene.

Paulicelli, Eugenia. “Fashion: The cultural economy of Made in Italy.” Fashion Practice 6, n. 2, (2014): 155–74.

Philosofie. “Expo @ MOMU: Rik Wouters & The Private Utopia.” Accessed January 11, 2018. https://philosofiesite.wordpress.com/2016/09/25/momu-rik-wouters-the-private-utopia/.

Querol, Lorena Sancho. “Do coração do museu: inventário e patrimônio imaterial em 11 museus portugueses.” In Informação ICOM.PT. Lisboa: ICOM Portugal, 2010.

Riello, Giorgio. “The object of fashion: Methodological approaches to the study of fashion.” Journal of Aesthetics and Culture 3, n. 1, (2011): 1–9.

Rubens Project. “Rik Wouters & the Private Utopia.” Accessed January 11, 2018. http://www.projetrubens.eu/en/rik-wouters-the-private-utopia/.

SACI The Art Blog. “Fabrics from the Italian Renaissance opens at Textile Museum in Prato: Monday, September 23.” Accessed December 1, 2017. https://saci-art.com/2013/09/20/fabrics-from-the-italian-renaissance-opens-at-textile-museum-in-prato-monday-september-23/.

Scott, Allen. The cultural economy of cities. Essays on the geography of image-producing industries. London, Thousand Oaks and New Delhi: Sage Publications, 2000.

Steele, Valerie. “Museum quality: The rise of the fashion exhibition.” Fashion Theory 12, n. 1, (2008): 7–30.

The culture trip. “Unravelling the Ecletic World of Henrik Vibskov, Denmarks’s Adored Fashion Designer.” Accessed January 7, 2018. https://theculturetrip.com/europe/denmark/articles/unravelling-the-eclectic-world-of-henrik-vibskov-denmarks-adored-fashion-designer/.

The Guardian. “Vogue at 100: models in the blitz, Diana with a tiara and the Kate moss creation myth.” Accessed January 11, 2018. https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/feb/09/vogue-100-models-blitz-diana-tiara-kate-moss-fashion-bible-century-of-style-british-female-power.

The Telegraph. “Vogue 100: A Century of Style, National Portrait Gallery, revew: ‘leaves you reeling.’” Accessed January 11, 2018. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/art/what-to-see/vogue-100-a-century-of-style-national-portrait-gallery-review-le/.

Van Mensch, Peter. “Methodological museology; or, towards a theory of museum practice.” In Objects of Knowledge, edited by Susan Pearce, 141–57. London: The Atholone Press, 1990.

Van Mensch, Peter. “Towards a Methodology of Museology.” PhD diss., University of Zagreb, Faculty of Philosophy, 1992.

Vogue. “Inside the Princess Diana Style Exhibition at Kensington Palace.” Accessed January 20, 2018. https://www.vogue.com/article/princess-diana-exhibition-kensington-palace.

Worn Through. “Henrik Vibsok exhibition, Helsinki Design Museum.” Accessed January 7, 2018. http://www.wornthrough.com/2014/02/henrik-vibskov-exhibition-helsinki-design-museum/.

WWD. “Karl Lagerfeld the Focus of Two German Exhibitions.” Accessed January 6, 2018. http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/double-exposure-7351970/?module=Fashion-Fashion%20Scoops-main.

Pubblicato

2018-07-24

Come citare

Neira García, L. (2018). Fashion: Cultural Heritage and the Made in. ZoneModa Journal, 8(1), 63–75. https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/8222