ZoneModa Journal https://zmj.unibo.it/ <strong>ZoneModa Journal – ISSN 2611-0563</strong> is the first Italian journal dedicated to fashion research in its complexity: aesthetic, social, cultural, economic, historical. Its aim is to cover an interdisciplinary space intersecting fashion criticism and fashion theory. Dipartimento delle Arti - Alma Mater Studiorum - Università di Bologna en-US ZoneModa Journal 2283-7043 <p>The copyrights of all the texts on this journal belong to the respective authors without restrictions.</p><div><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/" rel="license"><img src="https://licensebuttons.net/l/by/4.0/88x31.png" alt="Creative Commons License" /></a></div><p>This journal is licensed under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/" rel="license">Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License</a> (<a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/legalcode">full legal code</a>). <br /> See also our <a href="/about/editorialPolicies#openAccessPolicy">Open Access Policy</a>.</p> Editorial https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13963 Daniela Calanca Simona Segre Reinach Copyright (c) 2021 Daniela Calanca, Simona Segre Reinach https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 I III 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13963 Cross-cutting Views on Fashion and Tourism https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/14013 Gianluigi Di Giangirolamo Alessia Mariotti Copyright (c) 2021 Gianluigi Di Giangirolamo, Alessia Mariotti https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 V VIII 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/14013 The Florence Case. From Grand Hotel to Fortezza da Basso https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13915 <p>Mentre l’esplosione del fenomeno moda, ha caratterizzato la seconda metà del secolo scorso, il turismo ha visto l’aumento esponenziale dei suoi numeri con l’arrivo del nuovo millennio. Senza dubbio i due settori si sono sovrapposti e incrociati con altri aspetti della società contemporanea che vede la trasformazione di elementi della vita quotidiana in fenomeni di massa e soprattutto in motori di sviluppo economico, basti pensare al cibo. L’esame di quanto accaduto negli ultimi decenni a Firenze, città con un patrimonio culturale unico, una lunga vocazione turistica e un ruolo rilevante, guadagnato fin dal dopoguerra, in quanto sede di presentazione delle collezioni, può costituire uno strumento per tentare di analizzare un argomento molto variegato e complesso data la vasta portata dei due settori coinvolti.</p> Neri Fadigati Copyright (c) 2021 Neri Fadigati https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 117 131 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13915 Pompei: the creative laboratory for cultural tourism between scenes, costumes and archaeology https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13819 Ornella Cirillo Monica D’Auria Copyright (c) 2021 Ornella Cirillo, Monica D’Auria https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 133 144 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13819 Fashion Museum of Naples: Outside and Inside of the Depositories https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/14003 Lucia De Martino Copyright (c) 2021 Lucia De Martino https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 145 149 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/14003 <em>P.LACE.S – Looking Through Antwerp Lace</em>, Exibition by Romy Cockx and Wim Mertens, Antwerp, September, 25 2021–January 02 2022 https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13991 Nadica Maksimova Copyright (c) 2021 Nadica Maksimova https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 151 155 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13991 Fabriano Fabbri. <em>La moda contemporanea. II. Arte e stile dagli anni Sessanta alle ultime tendenze</em>. Einaudi, 2021 https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/14017 Chiara Pompa Copyright (c) 2021 Chiara Pompa https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 157 158 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/14017 Tim Blanks. <em> Versace. Sfilate. Tutte le collezioni </em>. Ippocampo Edizioni, 2021 https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13952 Sofia Gnoli Copyright (c) 2021 Sofia Gnoli https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 159 160 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13952 Patrizia Calefato. <em> Fashion as Cultural Translation. Signs, Images, Narratives</em>. Anthem Press, 2021 https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13830 Floriana Bernardi Copyright (c) 2021 Floriana Bernardi https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 161 162 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13830 Visions of non-Western Fashion https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13850 Flavia Piancazzo Copyright (c) 2021 Flavia Piancazzo https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 163 167 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13850 From Fashion to Food : Analyzing ‘Fashionized’ Gastronomic Experiences Through a Tourist Perspective. The Case of the Rhinoceros Entr'acte Restaurant Powered by Alda Fendi https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13826 <p>This article argues that fashion-branded gastronomic facilities (e.g. restaurants, cafés, etc.) can constitute a privileged viewpoint for observing the interrelation between fashion and tourism industrie(s). High fashion maisons have been investing in the restaurant and hospitality sector since the 1980s : however this trend has been systematized over the last two decades. Specialized literature is mainly focused on the marketing and management analysis of the phenomenon : this papera ims to depict the consequences of this systematization, both in terms of urban policies and narratives. Our research is based on a single, localized case study (the Rhinoceros Entr'acte restaurant powered by Alda Fendi within the city of Rome) and is underpinned by key hypotheses: through the wise use of food, the fashion designers can be vectors of heritagization both by acting as city boosters and by increasing the tourism potential. The data used are mainly qualitative : interviews, observations and media content analysis were executed between 2018 and 2021. We suggest that the process of commodification of the (touring and food) experience implemented by personalities associated to fashion brands may disguise a much more complex path of relationships and tensions between city actors, namely around how imaginaries and perceptions associated with cities are designed, iterated and perceived</p> Sandra Biondo Copyright (c) 2021 Sandra Biondo https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 25 41 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13826 Fashionable Scenarios for Urban Tourism Practices: Fashion Cities and Space Redefinition https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13817 <p>This research explores the opportunities of tourism practices to answer fashion ideas and trends by reconsidering urban spaces and creating fashionable content. Moreover, it denotes the fashion input in tourism spaces and redefines spaces that were transformed due to the fashionable scenarios. Special attention will be given to the changes, possibilities and limitations, in both industries due to the pandemic of COVID-19. The case study methodology will be based on the reflection on the Russian tourism industry. By investigating the changes in tourism offers due to fashion trends influence, it will become possible to define key factors of fashion and tourism collaboration and space redefinition.<br>Three ideas unify trends in the fashion and tourism industries today: i) Space redefinition -&nbsp; the ways to explore new tourism destinations and migration flows of tourists and fashion consumers who redefine spaces for fashionable practices; ii) collaborative instruments - new content for tourism practices complement the fashion industry to receive profits, benefits, followers, and inputs; for tourism industry, the fashionable scenarios bring city and place marketing and establish new touristic highlights and fashion capitals; iii) time perspective - the shift from mass tourism and overtourism to slow tourism practices and new experiences.</p> Maria Skivko Copyright (c) 2021 Maria Skivko https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 43 54 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13817 <em>Getting Dressed is a Bit Like Travelling</em>. Interconnections Between Fashion and Tourism in Italy from the Postwar Period to the Seventies. https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13862 <p>The article explores the modalities through which the Italian fashion, primarily connotated by a deep-seated relationship to its own territory and cultural heritage, chooses exotic countries and cultures as the most alluring scenarios for its own representations. This paradigmatic shift illustrates how Italian fashion – in the aftermath of World War II and through an ongoing process of internationalization – acknowledged its own creativity; and, in addition, it reveals the modalities Italian sartorial language appropriated atmospheres and styles connected to distant places. From this vantage point, the main domestic and international fashion magazines offered an innovative representation of clothing and territories to the imaginary and material fruition of fashion and tourism as well. It was a shift punctuated with cultural ambivalences revealing how the sartorial research was entagled with exoticizing and self-exoticizing feelings and attitudes oscillating from inspiration to appropriation into the wider framework of ethnocentrism.</p> Vittoria Caterina Caratozzolo Copyright (c) 2021 Vittoria Caterina Caratozzolo https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 55 69 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13862 Futuring Venice. A One on One Fashion and Tourism Experience https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13828 <p>Venice is one of the most investigated city in tourism studies for reasons that include overtourism, ecological survival, and housing exodus. Conversely, fashion studies are hardly interested in the relationship between this city and fashion in the 21st century.</p> <p>This article aims to fill this gap by investigating the relationships of fashion with tourism and urban space in Venice, through the eyes of those who are active in the conception, production and sale of fashion in the lagoon city. Can fashion be part of a new idea of the city? Can it represent a redirective practice, which stimulates compatible and sustainable relations between residential and tourist areas?</p> <p>The cases analysed in this article tell of experiencing access to fashion in a dimension that is defined here as one on one, in which the human and urban bodies are taken care of through a tailor-made approach. They represent an instrument of integration between local and global dimensions, capable of living with stereotypes, finding a new normality in the extraordinary of Venice, a daily life, as opposed to a rapid and temporaryc onsumption of the city.</p> Alessandra Vaccari Paolo Franzo Copyright (c) 2021 Alessandra Vaccari, Paolo Franzo https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 71 89 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13828 A "Special Ambience" for Fashion and Tourism: from Capri to Positano https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13816 <p>The identification of many places as centres of designer shopping has in recent decades favoured a number of Italian destinations for which this aspect has become a promotional feature similar to art, landscape and food. In Campania, this phenomenon has developed particularly in Capri, Ischia and Positano, wherein the mid-twentieth century, thanks to the initiative of local craftsmen or cunning outsiders, tailor’s shops, boutiques and workshops were set up in response to customers’ demand for clothes and accessories suited to holiday life. Thus, for different reasons and in different ways, resort fashion has taken off here, a thriving national production sector, characterised by accents strongly related to the ‘knowledge’, rituals and climate of these special places. The combination of the intangible qualities which characterised the garments and the craft traditions of the localities gave rise to artefacts capable of responding to the search for new emotional sensations that belonged to the steadily increasing number of tourists, which was satisfied by environments and lifestyles that were completely different from their usual ones.</p> <p>This process found a decisive conjuncture in the fact that in the middle of the century fashion joined tourism and cinema to bring Italy out of the post-war crisis. And in Campania, in particular, manufacturing and cultural conditions, folklore and the rich natural heritage of the coasts were some of the main drivers of this project, favoured in this sense in Capri and Positano by ideal landscape conditions for conveying the results of the most authentic creativity.</p> Ornella Cirillo Copyright (c) 2021 Ornella Cirillo https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 91 116 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13816 State Policies between Fashion Cultural Heritage and Tourism https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13818 <p>The essay aims to analyze the relations between Fashion Cultural Heritage and Tourism in Italy, starting from the policies of the Italian State of the last twenty years. <br />In particular, it will be shown how the debate on cultural heritage is underway and the problem of the fashion museum has not yet been solved.</p> Daniela Calanca Copyright (c) 2021 Daniela Calanca https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 1 11 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13818 Tourism by the Sea. Development of Customs, Habits and Fashion on the Beach https://zmj.unibo.it/article/view/13827 <p>The paper studies the development of seaside tourism, presenting the phases of its development: from health resorts, swimming in the cold sea, and slowly moving towards the warmer southern seaside destinations. It touches upon the initiators and promotors of medical treatments with sea air and bathing. It also focuses on customs and fashion on the beach. In order to understand the evolution of the bathing suits, the processes and circumstances, which influenced the development of customs, regulations on the beach and fashion, will be presented. How did the “evolution” of the bathing or swimsuit take place during the 19<sup>th</sup> and 20<sup>th</sup> century? It is important to understand when and why the previously “dangerous” and unfriendly sea has acquired healing characteristics and what were the factors and dynamics that encouraged the fashion of bathing in seawater. The aim is to present how the rituals on the beach evolved and how the life on the beach changed throughout time and became one of the most spread and popular leisure activity in summer.</p> Petra Kavrečič Copyright (c) 2021 Petra Kavrečič https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 2021-12-16 2021-12-16 11 2 13 23 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13827