ZoneModa Journal 2020-12-22T10:32:21+01:00 Editorial Team Open Journal Systems <strong>ZoneModa Journal – ISSN 2611-0563</strong> is the first Italian journal dedicated to fashion research in its complexity: aesthetic, social, cultural, economic, historical. Its aim is to cover an interdisciplinary space intersecting fashion criticism and fashion theory. Alberto Fabio Ambrosio, Dio tre volte sarto. Moda, chiesa e teologia. Prefazione del Cardinale Gianfranco Ravasi, Vestire l’indicibile. Moda e religioni, Mimesis, 2020 2020-11-18T20:47:32+01:00 Simona Segre Reinach 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Simona Segre Reinach Sofia Gnoli, Moda. Dalla nascita della haute couture a oggi, Nuova edizione, Roma, Carocci, 2020 2020-11-29T16:26:14+01:00 Daniela Baroncini 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Daniela Baroncini Alessandra Lopez y Royo, Contemporary Indonesian Fashion: Through the Looking Glass Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2020 2020-11-22T18:08:13+01:00 Flavia Piancazzo 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Flavia Piancazzo Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas, Libertine Fashion: Sexual Freedom, Rebellion, and Style, Bloomsbury, 2020 2020-11-22T18:01:12+01:00 Nicola Brajato 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Nicola Brajato Luisa Ciuni and Marina Spadafora, La rivoluzione comincia dal tuo armadio. Tutto quello che dovreste sapere sulla moda sostenibile, Solferino, 2020 2020-11-16T14:54:23+01:00 Nadica Maksimova 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Nadica Maksimova Galtrucco Una storia milanese A cura di Enrico Mannucci, Rizzoli, 2020 2020-11-18T21:05:19+01:00 Simona Segre Reinach 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Simona Segre Reinach ‘Paolo Roversi-Studio Luce’ MAR di Ravenna - ottobre 2020-gennaio 2021 2020-11-20T20:54:46+01:00 Tiziana Cardini 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Tiziana Cardini We Are Who We Are: Futuristic Teen Agers 2020-12-14T08:28:36+01:00 Ylenia Caputo 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Ylenia Caputo Dall’archivio fisico all’archivio digitale: l’esperienza di A.N.G.E.L.O. Vintage Palace narrata dal suo fondatore Angelo Caroli 2020-12-17T12:36:59+01:00 Gustavo Marfia 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Gustavo Marfia Fashioning the Body of the Future 2020-11-22T18:13:07+01:00 Tomáš Bubelíny 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Tomáš Bubelíny Archivi digitali della moda e patrimonio culturale tra descrizione e integrazione 2020-11-19T14:19:33+01:00 Daniela Calanca <p>The physical distancing, a consequence of the current pandemic, has contributed to highlight a number of problems related to digital archives on the web, which have been debated for about 20 years. In particular, when faced with the cultural need to aggregate different data in the field of research and studies, it emphasised how the integration of cultural heritage in the digital domain has not yet been achieved. In this regard, the issue is not so much and not only technological but above all of a conceptual, historiographical and methodological nature. Starting from the assessment that the technological tool is the answer and not the question, this essay presents some reflections on fundamental issues, still under debate, related to the cultural heritage of fashion, especially fashion archives. This is in order to propose a hypothesis that is historiographical rather than technological, for potential integration of digital fashion archives into the web, as the founding pillar of the intercultural system of national heritage.</p> 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Daniela Calanca La memoria ‘estesa’ della moda. Come valorizzare l’heritage aziendale con la tecnologia 2020-12-08T16:33:01+01:00 Chiara Pompa <p>During the past months of lockdown and social distancing, necessary to counter the spread of the COVID-19 pandemic, the fashion world opened the doors of its digital databases, sharing the cultural heritage with the web community. A praiseworthy initiative capable of stimulating a reflection on the dimension of accessibility to fashion archives, as well as on the uses that can be made of their materials. This phenomenon is in fact observable from multiple perspectives: if on the one hand, it may provide useful insight into the progress of digitalization, on the other it underlines the limited use of Extended Reality in corporate archives and museums of Fashion System, that has adopted this technology primarily in both B2B and B2C retail. Starting from the analysis of the state of the art, the paper aims to trace potential paths for future research on this field, in order to support the fruition and valorization of the fashion heritage through augmented and virtual reality technologies.</p> 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Chiara Pompa Digital Humanities e moda 2020-11-27T08:54:04+01:00 Valentina Rossi <p>To answer the question posed by the call: <em>Could the pandemic, the pervasive use of the Web and the experimentation of Extended Reality technologies give a boost to fashion archives?</em> it is necessary to undertake a analysis of different case studies that over the years have been confronted with Digital Humanities practices.The essay aims to outline a methodological lecture on museum and archival practices related to digital humanities. Since March 2020, museums and archives have accelerated the data restitution process and reinterpreted the functions of institutions through digital practices and virtual exhibitions - that do not aspire to replace the real ones - and demonstrating how these are placed on a different level of reading. They can certainly integrate with the museum and physical itinerary, but they can also take place independently of it. The debate on Digital Humanities and Virtual Exhibitions is now wide and articulated and one of its major authors, Jeffrey Schnapp, writes of <em>Knowledge design</em>: we find ourselves creating new forms of knowledge assuming the current conditions that contemporaneity offers us, while other critical perspectives are aimed at restoring the difference on the role of the document as such or on the method of construction and the impact of digital platforms</p> 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Valentina Rossi The Future of Fashion: How the Quest for Digitization and the Use of Artificial Intelligence and Extended Reality Will Reshape the Fashion Industry After COVID-19 2020-11-22T17:35:11+01:00 Barbara Silvestri <p>The aim of this paper is to analyze how extended reality (formed by virtual and augmented reality), and artificial intelligence are influencing the fashion field. During and after the Covid19 pandemic, a radical shift happened: most activities, from shopping to showrooms and fashion weeks had to move online. While e-commerce was already a consolidated pillar of fashion shopping, it recently started to evolve to achieve through AR (augmented reality) and VR (virtual reality) what customers could before find in physical stores: interesting experiences and sensory stimuli. Online traffic peaked, creating even more room for technology based on artificial intelligence. With its disrupting powers, AI (artificial intelligence) has all the potentialities to take over each step of the fashion value chain. Furthermore, with the quarantine the production of fashion was slowed down by the absence of workers in production sites. Artificial intelligence and automation could be an answer. In this paper AR, VR and AI technologies are analyzed with practical examples on what has happened and is happening in the industry, from a perspective based on the challenges imposed by Covid-19. Results indicate that AR, VR and AI have the potential to become in the near future the norm in the fashion media and technology ecosystem, reinforcing the digitization process of the industry.</p> 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Barbara Silvestri Mise en abyme. L’esperienza espansa della moda nell’età della mixed reality 2020-11-22T17:45:25+01:00 Alessandra Vaccari Paolo Franzo Giulia Tonucci <p>The article investigates the 21<sup>st</sup>-century fashion through the theoretical lens of the mise en abyme, focusing on the mixed reality as an extended panorama between physical and digital. Four case studies were chosen within the Italian context, deemed as a place of experimentation and interaction between digital innovation and manufacturing tradition. Those cases have developed projects in mixed reality during the months of social distancing imposed by Covid-19, with significant consequences on creative processes, production, distribution, communication and consumption of fashion. In this scenario, the article questions the expansion of fashion experience, the ongoing transformation of the digital object, the conception and perception of time and the idea of intimacy at the time of Covid.</p> 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Alessandra Vaccari, Paolo Franzo, Giulia Tonucci Towards Sustainable Fashion: The Role of Artificial Intelligence --- H&M, Stella McCartney, Farfetch, Moosejaw: A Multiple Case Study 2020-11-27T08:41:21+01:00 Daniela Candeloro <p>Throughout history, technology has undoubtedly changed many aspects of humanity, and more recently, artificial intelligence has certainly created a significant impact on people, industry and planet.</p> <p>Parallelly, there is another factor which affects Earth and people lives: the harmful footprint that is generated within the whole fashion system. From production to consumption, fashion creates a vicious cycle where unsustainable behaviours are repeatedly practised. On the other hand, an increasing concern is rising about these kinds of damaging approaches, demanding for a more sustainable fashion system.</p> <p>In this scenario, could artificial intelligence have a role in building a sustainable fashion system? This essay tries to answer this question examining how artificial intelligence can be implemented to gain sustainable solutions within the fashion production and consumption.</p> <p>More specifically, the research is developed through the multiple case study methodology.For this reason, four fashion brand cases are analysed in order to underline the sustainable benefits gained from each strategy: H&amp;M, Stella McCartney, Farfetch, Moosejaw.</p> 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Daniela Candeloro How bloggers and influencers created the pandemic narrative: a new stage representing the (fake) everyday life 2020-11-18T19:40:25+01:00 Giulia Rossi <p>As the <em>Washington Post </em>fashion critic Robin Givhan stated, the fashion narrative changed during the COVID-19 pandemic, especially for bloggers, influencers, digital ambassadors and all those professional figures focusing their work on the digital representation of self in their everyday life. Their stage has always been the online platform of publishing (Instagram, YouTube, TikTok) on which they built a new form of storytelling. They plan their life to represent the brands they made commercial agreements with. This representation is not staged in real life, it is, the representation of a fake, virtual life. The COVID-19 pandemic abruptly interrupted this storytelling and gave rise to a new way of representing all of us, especially influencers and bloggers, forced at home in our pajamas and comfort clothes. All forms of live storytelling on social networks reached a record peak during the COVID-19 pandemic. A pause and an objective reflection on this phenomenon are necessary since it is characterising a movement going in the opposite direction of the acceleration of fashion that characterized the last decades. The need to find a new rhythm for the fashion universe is now evident and it is to be interpreted as a call to action for all the persons involved.</p> 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Giulia Rossi Shifting Paradigms Impact of Technology on the diffusion of trends 2020-11-19T13:59:47+01:00 Giuppy d’Aura <p>Since the very first studies on fashion and consumption, fashion has been conceived as a very specific pattern of imitation imbricated with Modern societies, bourgeoisie and the new models of conspicuous consumption ignited by the industrial revolution. Fashion was perceived as a trickle-down system originated by the elites and subsequently adopted by the lower classes. It is only in the second half of the XX Century that intellectuals such as Ted Polhemus, suggest alternative models in order to explain the diffusion of trends such as the bubble-up model. This essay aims to update the theory of the trickle-down diffusion of trends and re-consider it as the most suitable model hitherto. Moreover, it will be analysed a fundamental question: what is happening to the diffusion of trends in the era of mechanisation, over-production and increased speed? And what will it happen in the near future? The impact of such innovations is not to be overlooked as they exert considerable pressure over the fashion business by re-directing the individual choices of contemporary clients. The aim of this essay is precisely to get closer to try an explanation of these evolutions.</p> 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Giuppy d’Aura Fashion, Digital Technologies, and AI. Is the 2020 Pandemic Really Driving a Paradigm Shift? 2020-11-22T17:07:35+01:00 Luca Casini Marco Roccetti <p>Is the COVID-19 pandemic going to force the fashion industry to rethink herself and push it to embrace digital technologies more massively than before? The answer is most likely “yes”, but the question is somewhat ill-posed. In fact, the fashion world, especially haute couture, has always been very keen to innovation and to digital technology. Even before the current situation, there have been experiments that encompass every part of the fashion ecosystem, including smarter supply chain and manufacturing, design of new materials, new ways of presenting fashion with digitally augmented shows. While other businesses are hardly learning that digital is the way to go, the fashion world seems to have found this insight a long time ago and has been a fertile field for digital applications for a long time. For example, the commercial model has already shifted from being centered around retailers to being heavily reliant on online shopping. Not only this, but we are also seeing an increasing number of so-called <em>digital native </em>fashion brands, that is brands designed from the ground up to be entities of the digital world. This new way of selling fashion has been leveraging big data for some years now. Nonetheless, the abrupt change in our life dictated by the global advent of COVID-19, with the measures taken to mitigate it, like quarantine for example, is most certainly having an further effect on this industry, at all levels, from haute couture to fast fashion, from big brands to small ones. Some few examples include big fashion shows,where dazzling set pieces and parties are no longer possible, replaced by internet live streams. Even big fairs are now hosted as online events,with many brands launching digital applications that allow customers to try clothes virtually. All this considered, while it is certainly true that what happened in 2020 has had the primary effect ofrelegating retail stores almost to mere warehouses,with the catastrophic possibility they can even disappear in the foreseeable future, yet we believe thatthe correct question to ask is whether this phenomenon has just started now or has simply accelerated with the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic.In this paper, we favor this second hypothesis,and maintain that the current shift in the fashion industry practices and prioritiesfollow a trend started may years ago, that the spread of the virus has only emphasized.</p> 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Luca Casini, Marco Roccetti Editorial 2020-12-15T23:07:26+01:00 Simona Segre Reinach Daniela Calanca 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Simona Segre Reinach, Daniela Calanca #DigitalFashionFutures 2020-12-09T18:44:22+01:00 Gustavo Marfia 2020-12-22T00:00:00+01:00 Copyright (c) 2020 Gustavo Marfia