Be Cool, Be Responsible, Buy Responsibly: Bihor Couture VS Christian Dior, a Case Study

Authors

  • Dominika Czakon Jagiellonian University in Kraków
  • Monika Mazur-Bubak Cracow University of Economics

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/10556

Keywords:

Bihor Couture, Cultural Appropriation, Phenomenological Theory of Art, Corporate Social Responsibility, Creating Shared Values

Abstract

In the article, referring to the Bihor vs. Dior case study, we criticize the phenomenon of illegitimate borrowing of the achievements of a given culture by corporations which we consider an act of cultural appropriation, in terms of both aesthetics and business ethics. We also describe the potential for a positive solution to the problems of cultural borrowing. The first part of our analysis is based on Roman Ingarden’s phenomenological theory of art, concerning artistic and aesthetic qualities and artistic and aesthetic values. Our analysis consists of the juxtaposition of two works, i.e., traditional clothing from the region of Bihor and clothing referring to this original, presented in the Dior collection, along with an indication and comparison of the associated qualities and values. In the second part of the article, we analyze the Bihor vs. Dior case from the point of view of the contemporary concepts of CSR (corporate social responsibility) and CSV (creating shared values). We indicate that the case under discussion is an example of bad corporate practices and irresponsible borrowing of the achievements of a given culture. At the same time, we state why, from an ethical point of view, it is worth returning to the use of local suppliers and small local craft businesses.

References

BBC News, “When does cultural borrowing turn into cultural appropriation?” (August 29, 2019), https://www.bbc.com/news/world-africa-41430748.

Bihor Couture, “Discover Bihor Couture” (August 29, 2019), http://www.bihorcouture.com/about.php.

Bowen, Howard R. Social Responsibilities of the Businessman. Iowa: University of Iowa Press, 2013.

Branding News. “Romania Knocks out Dior’s Copycat Clothes with Authentic Coat” (May 29, 2018), https://www.branding.news/2018/05/29/romania-knocks-out-diors-copycat-clothes-with-authentic-coat.

Burns Coleman, Elizabeth. “Aboriginal Painting: Identity and Authenticity.” The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, vol. 59, n. 4 (Autumn, 2001): 385-402.

Carroll, Archie B. “Corporate Social Responsibility: Evolution of a Definitional Construct.” Business & Society, vol. 38, n. 3 (September 1999), 268-95.

Crane, Andrew, Guido Palazzo, Laura J. Spence and Dirk Matten. “Contesting the Value of ‘Creating Shared Value’.” California Management Review, 56/2 (2014): 130-53, https://doi.org/10.1525/cmr.2014.56.2.130.

Davis, Keith. “Can Business Afford to Ignore Social Responsibilities?” California Management Review, vol. 2 (Spring 1960): 70-6.

Eells, Richard. Corporate Giving in a Free Society. New York: Harper & Bros., 1956.

Euronews, “Romanian designers accuse Dior of ‘plagiarising’ traditional vest.” (August 29, 2019), https://www.euronews.com/2018/07/05/romanian-designers-accuse-dior-of-plagiarising-traditional-vest.

Freeman, R. Edward. Strategic Management: A Stakeholder Approach. Boston: Pitman, 1984.

Friedman, Milton. Capitalism and Freedom. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1962.

Gołaszewska, Maria. “Wartość estetyczna.” In Zarys estetyki, 337-87. Warsaw: PWN, 1983.

Harper’s Bazaar. “Victoria’s Secret is being accused of cultural appropriation yet again.” (August 29, 2019), https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a13880726/victorias-secret-cultural-appropriation-native-american.

Hatala, Matthes Erich. “Cultural Appropriation Without Cultural Essentialism?” Social Theory and Practice, vol. 42, n. 2, Special Issue: Dominating Speech (April 2016): 343-66.

Heald, Morrell. The Social Responsibilities of Business: Company and Community, 1900-1960. Cleveland, OH: Case Western Reserve University Press, 1970.

Hladki, Janice. “Problematizing the Issue of Cultural Appropriation.” Alternate Routes: A Journal of Critical Social Research, vol. 11 (1994): 95-119.

https://www.timeslive.co.za/sunday-times/lifestyle/fashion-and-beauty/2017-07-13-the-evolution-of-the-basotho-blanket/

Ingarden. Roman. “Artistic and Aesthetic Values.” The British Journal of Aesthetics, trans. H. Osborne, vol. 4, n. 3 (1964): 198-213.

Ingarden, Roman. “Czego nie wiemy o wartościach.” In Studia z estetyki, vol. 3 (Warsaw: PIW, 1970).

Ingarden, Roman. “Wartość estetyczna i zagadnienie jej obiektywnego ugruntowania.” In Studia z estetyki, 258-65.

Ingarden, Roman. Das literarische Kunstwerk. Eine Untersuchung aus dem Grenzgebiet der Ontologie. Logik und Literaturwissenschaft. Halle: Niemeyer, 1931 (first edition).

Ingarden, Roman. O poznawaniu dzieła literackiego. Warsaw: PWN, 1970.

Ingarden, Roman. Przeżycie, dzieło, wartość. Kraków: Wydawnictwo Literackie, 1966 (first edition).

Ingarden, Roman. Spór o istnienie świata, vols. 1-2. Kraków: PAU, 1947-48 (first edition).

Jacobides, Michael G., Carmelo Cennamo and Annabelle Gawer. “Towards a Theory of Ecosystems.” Strategic Management Journal (June 2018), https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/smj.2904.

Kaplan, Robert S., George Serafeim and Eduardo Tugendhat. “Inclusive Growth: Profitable Strategies for Tackling Poverty and Inequality.” Harvard Business Review (January-February 2018): 126-33.

Kennick, William E. “Art and Inauthenticity.” The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, vol. 44, n. 1 (Autumn, 1985): 3-12.

McGuire, Joseph. Business and Society. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1963.

Metro News. “Dior copied traditional Romanian clothing so Romanians are getting their own back” (August 29, 2019), https://metro.co.uk/2018/07/05/dior-copied-traditional-romanian-clothing-romanians-getting-back-7686135/.

Nationalclothing. “Romanian people sued Dior for copying their folk clothing in his collection” (August 29, 2019), http://nationalclothing.org/europe/96-romania/342-romanian-people-sued-dior-for-copying-their-folk-clothing-in-his-collection.html.

Nowak, Andrzej and Leszek Sosnowski, eds. Słownik pojęć filozoficznych Romana Ingardena, 138-42. Kraków: Universitas 2001.

Pfitzer Marc, Mark Kramer, “The Ecosystem of Shared Value.” Harvard Business Review (October 2016): 6.

Picarelli Enrica. “Afrosartorialism. A research project on fashion and street-style sartorialism from Africa” by “Cornrows, bone jewelry, and metal masks: ‘Wild Africa’ in Maison Valentino Spring-Summer 2016 Collection” (August 29, 2019), https://afrosartorialism.wordpress.com/2015/10/07/cornrows-bone-jewelry-and-metal-masks-wild-africa-in-maison-valentino-spring-summer-2016-collection/.

Porter Michael E. and Mark R. Kramer. “Creating Shared Value.” Harvard Business Review 89/1-2 (January-February 2011): 62-77.

Porter Michael E. and Mark R. Kramer. “Strategy and Society: The Link Between Competitive Advantage and Corporate Social Responsibility.” Harvard Business Review 84/12 (December 2006): 78-92.

Porter Michael E. and Mark R. Kramer. “The Big Idea: Creating Shared Value. Rethinking Capitalism.” Harvard Business Review (January-February 2011), https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/53c0/606a0d6f7d01434039bf7039f8e48f95fd06.pdf.

Selekman, Benjamin. A Moral Philosophy for Management. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1959.

Sunday Times. “Fab or cultural faux pas? Louis Vuitton’s Basotho blanket-inspired collection” (August 29, 2019).

The Blanket Wrap. “The History of the Basotho traditional blanket” (August 29, 2019), https://lesotho-blanketwrap.com/2010/lesotho-stories/the-history-of-the-basotho-traditional-blanket/.

The Blanket Wrap. “Louis Vuitton’s latest Basotho Blanket Inspired Range” (August 29, 2019), https://lesotho-blanketwrap.com/2017/lesotho-clothing-and-fashion/louis-vuittons-latest-basotho-blanket-inspired-range/.

Vogue. “Pre-Fall 2017 Christian Dior” (August 29, 2019), https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/christian-dior#coverage.

Young, James O. “Art, Authenticity and Appropriation.” Frontiers of Philosophy in China, vol. 1, n. 3 (September, 2006): 455-76.

Young, James O. “Profound Offense and Cultural Appropriation.” The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, vol. 63, n. 2 (Spring, 2005), 135-46.

Young, James O. Cultural Appropriation and the Arts. Oxford: Blackwell, 2008.

YouTube. “Bihor Couture Interviews – Ep 4 Paris Fashion Week” (August 29, 2019), https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NM34y6VtlMQ.

Downloads

Published

2020-05-20

How to Cite

Czakon, D., & Mazur-Bubak, M. (2020). Be Cool, Be Responsible, Buy Responsibly: Bihor Couture VS Christian Dior, a Case Study. ZoneModa Journal, 10(1S), 83–98. https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/10556