L’archivio di maglieria come strumento per esplorare le nuove tecnologie

Giovanni Maria Conti; Diego Dani; Martina Motta; Irene Sapuppo; Federica Vacca

doi:10.6092/issn.2611-0563/20839

Authors

Giovanni Maria Conti Politecnico di Milano

Ph.D cum laude, Associate Professor, he is the Coordinator of Knitwear design Lab of the Fashion Design Degree at the Politecnico di Milano. For Instituto Italo-Latino Americano – IILA he is expert collaborator in the Pymes Forum for cooperation projects on textile and fashion. He is a member of the editorial board of “Lupetti. Editori di Comunicazione". In 2020, he received the Honorable Mention at the XXVI Compasso d'Oro for the "DigiKnit" research, he is member of the Advisory Board of CiAUD, Research Center in Arquitecture Urbanism and Design - Lisbon and member of LeNS - International Learning Network on Sustainability.
Diego Dani Politecnico di Milano

Master of Science cum laude in Design for the Fashion System from Politecnico di Milano, he is Research Fellow at the Department of Architecture, Built Environment and Construction Engineering of Politecnico di Milano, where he works on research and development of innovative textile solutions obtained from fibers made from bio-based polymers. He collaborates with the Knitwear Design Lab of Politecnico di Milano for research and didactic activities. His work focuses on the new trajectories of technological innovation which characterize knitting, adopting an integrated approach between tradition and innovation, with a particular focus on sustainability.
Martina Motta Politecnico di Milano

Ph.D. cum laude in Design, she is Assistant Professor in Fashion Design at the Design Department of Politecnico di Milano and a faculty member in the FIT in Milan program of the Fashion Institute of Technology (NY). Her teaching and research activity focuses on knitwear and textile design at the convergence of traditional techniques with advanced technologies, sustainable design, industrial processes and products.
Irene Sapuppo Politecnico di Milano

Recent graduate in Design for the Fashion System from Politecnico di Milano, where she also earned her Bachelor's degree in Fashion Design with a specialization in knitwear. She collaborates with the Knitwear Research Group at Politecnico, contributing to both research and didactics. Her work focuses on exploring the potential of virtual representation in fashion, particularly in translating these innovations into knitwear design. Her research blends traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge digital techniques, aiming to redefine the future of knitwear in the fashion industry.
Federica Vacca Politecnico di Milano

Federica Vacca, PhD, Associate Professor and Faculty Member of the School of Design at Politecnico di Milano. She is co-founder of the Fashion in Process Research Lab at Design Dept. and Deputy Director of the Gianfranco Ferré Research Center, Digital Innovation for the Creative and Cultural Industries. Her research interests concern handcraft-driven creation processes for enhancing local culture knowledge and design-driven innovation in "culture intensive" industries, specifically focusing on the fashion sector. She is a fashion heritage specialist, curator of corporate archives, and an expert in fashion heritage management through digital technology.

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/20839

Keywords:

Knitwear, Archive, Heritage, Technological Innovation, Industry 4.0

Abstract

The knitwear field has been experiencing a significant economic growth and has been going through a strong phase of technological development, driven by merging innovations coming from mechanics, electronics and the digital sector, coherently with the evolution of the Industry 4.0. Two main innovation areas are identified: new manufacturing technologies, developed by knitting machine producers, and virtualization and 3D modeling softwares, enabling virtual garment prototyping on avatars.This paper explores the role of design as a “cultural mediator” between the present and the past and, through a research conducted at the Gianfranco Ferré Research Center, it proposes the use of the archive as a tool to explore the new trajectories of technological innovation in knitwear and to guide them through the perspective of the Industry 5.0, refusing a technocratic idea of the future. Two approaches are highlighted: the ri-materialization of archival pieces through 3D modeling and the reinterpretation of archival material experimenting with new technologies. The research underscores the archive’s role as a tool to anticipate the future and proposes the adoption of a design-oriented approach to fully understand its value, countering a passive consumption of the archive.

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The Knitwear Archive as a Tool to Explore New Technologies

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