Persone, Pianeta, Profitto e Parole. Come la sostenibilità riscrive la storia della moda

Clizia Moradei; Alessandra Vaccari

doi:10.6092/issn.2611-0563/18467

Authors

Clizia Moradei Università Iuav di Venezia

She is a PhD student in Fashion and previously was research fellow at Università Iuav di Venezia. Her research themes include sustainable fashion practices and methodologies with a focus on biomaterials at the intersection with botany, biology and new ecologies; the educational aspect intertwining visual arts, product and fashion design; the relationship between design, craftivism and industrial production. Touching some of these themes, she published the chapter «Sustainable Sneakers for a Return to Nature» in The Fashion Notebook 2022 edited by Pearson.
Alessandra Vaccari Università Iuav di Venezia

She is professor and researcher in fashion history and theory at Università Iuav di Venezia. With a background in contemporary art history, her interdisciplinary work focuses on three main areas: Italian and European modernist fashion in the early 20th century; the relationships between time and fashion; present-day fashion cultures and theories in their implications on environmental sustainability and social change. On fashion and time she has co-edited Time in Fashion: Industrial, Antilinear and Uchronic Temporalities (2020). Her most recent book is Indossare la trasformazione (2022). Since December 2019 she leads the research Fashion Futuring at Università Iuav di Venezia.

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/18467

Keywords:

Anthropocene, Sustainability, History, Fashion, Eco-centric System

Abstract

The contribution moves from the temporal perspective of the Anthropocene, in which the human being is seen as creator and manipulator of what surrounds it, to ask what shape time has in the perspective of fashion and how it is being rewritten in a post-anthropocentric direction. For this purpose, we intend to shed light on the complex relationship of fashion with its historical dimension by analyzing the complexity that the term sustainability evokes. The contribution proposes a conceptual and methodological framework based on three key aspects of sustainability explained by the so-called three “p”s strategy: people, planet and profit. Through this framework, the contribution offers the possibility of addressing the dense series of temporal references necessary to re-read the connections between fashion and sustainability, incorporating into the investigation both the development of a theory of sustainability related to fashion and the analysis of specific cases of study. The perspective highlighted by this contribution allows us to frame fashion as a destructive force, but also as a possible transformative, hybridizing and healing agent, as a conscious form of conservation of the physical, social and cultural environment in which we live.

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People, Planet, Profit, and Discourse. How Sustainability Rewrites the History of Fashion

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