The Celebration of Heritage in Soviet Fashion: the Case of the Perm Fashion House

Iuliia Papushina, Roman Abramov

Abstract


The USSR created the largest system of fashion design in the Socialist world, but regional Soviet fashion houses have not attracted much attention from social science. This paper examines the cases of two designers from the Perm Fashion House and their experiments with heritage in fashion design. These designers can be viewed as representatives of different approaches to the application of traditional costume heritage in Soviet fashion. The findings of the paper reveals Soviet state legitimized limited part of the Pre-Revolution Russian cultural heritage namely  folk decorative motifs and applied arts disregarding other kinds of heritage as sources for designers’ inspiration. In the Late Socialism period folk-inspired design was the top-down initiative promoted in design colleges, fashion magazines, but not available for mass production. The results also shows the designers creating collections for an inner market had more freedom than the ones designed for international trade events.


Keywords


Soviet Past; Fashion Industry; Heritage; Folk-Based Style; Late Socialism

References


Alpatova, Irina. “Hudozhnik Alexei Veselov.” Zhurnal mod, (Leto 1981): 30–34.

Andreeva, Iren. Chastnayzhizn' prisocialisme. Otchet sovetskogo obyvatelay. Moskva: Novoe Literaturnoe Obozrenie, 2009.

Balandina, Tatyana. “Vo vremyavystavki v Vankuvere.” Zhurnal mod. (Zima 1986): 20–23.

Bartlett, Djurdja. FashionEast: The Spectre that Haunted Socialism. Cambridge MIT Press, 2010.

Blank, Anna and Zinaida Fomina. Russkay narodnay odezhda i sovremennoe plat'e. Moskva: Legkoi i Pestchevoy Promyshlennosti, 1982.

Brown, Kate. Plutopia: Nuclear Families, Atomic Cities, and the Great Soviet and American Plutonium Disasters. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2015.

Cohen, Yves. “Circulatory Localities: The Example of Stalinism in the 1930s.” Kritika: Explorations in Russian and Eurasian History, vol.11 (1) (Winter 2010): 11–45.

Goralik Linor. “Antresole pamyanti: vospominaniay o costume 1990 goda.” Novoe Literaturnoe Obozrenie, vol. 84 (2007): http://magazines.russ.ru/nlo/2007/84/go23.html.

Gosudarstvenyi Arhiv PermskogoKraya, Fond 1097,Delo 846.

Gosudarstvenyi Arhiv PermskogoKraya, Fond 1510,Delo 157.

Gronow, Jukka and Sergey Zhuravlev. Fashion meets Socialism. Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War. Helsinki : Finish Literature Society SKS, 2015.

Gurova, Olga. Sovetskoe niznhee bel'e: Mezhdu ideologiei i povsednevnost'yu. Moskva: Novoe Literaturnoe Obozrenie, 2008.

Hausbacher, Eva (Edited by). Fashion, Consumption and Everyday Culture in the Soviet Union between 1945 and 1985. Munich: Verlag Otto Sagner, 2014.

Klumbytė, Neringa and Gulnaz Sharafutdinova. “Introduction: What Was Late Socialism” in Soviet Society in the Era of Late Socialism, 1964–1985, edited by Neringa Klumbytė, 1–15. Plymouth: Lexington Books, 2015.

Lemekhov, Leonid. “Unpublished interview for the research project”The fashion that works №18-01-0027," interview by I. Papushina, audio, 02:50:00, August, October, 2017.

Myshlayeva, Emma. “Tvorchestvo molodyh” Zhurnal mod, (Autumn 1980): 32–33.

Nikolayenko, Olena. “Contextual effects on historical memory: Soviet nostalgia among post-Soviet adolescents,” Communist and Post-Communist Studies, vol. 41 (2008): 243–259 .

Oborina, Elena. “Unpublished interview for the research project ‘The fashion that works №18-01-0027’,” interview by I. Papushina, audio, 02:36:00, May, September, 2017

Ovsyannikov Anatolij, Pettaj Iris, Rimashevskaya Nataliya. Tipologiya potrebitel'skogo povedeniya. Moskva: Nauka, 1989.

Razuvalova, Anna. Pisatele-«dereventschiki»: literatura i konservnaya ideologiya 1970-h godov. Moskva: Novoe Literaturnoe Obozrenie, 2015.

Romanov, Pavel and Elena Yarskaya-Smirnova. “Fartsa: Podpol'e sovetskogo obstchestva potrebleniay,” Neprikosnovennyi zapas and margins, Vol.43(5) (2007): http://magazines.russ.ru/nz/2005/43/ro12-pr.html.

Strizhenova, Tatiana. Iz istoree sovetskogo costuma. Moskva: Sovetskii Hudozhnik, 1972.

Tschipakina, Alla. Moda v SSSR. Sovetskii Kuznetckii, 14. Moskva: Slovo/Slovo, 2009.

Vanshtain, Olga. “Modeliruya sovetskih zhenstchin: portnicha kak kul'turnyi geroy epohe socializma,” Teoriay mody, vol. 1(3) (2007): https://stengazeta.net/?p=10003793.

Vkus. Starina. Moda.

Yurchak, Alexei. Everything Was Forever, Until It Was No More: The Last Soviet Generation. Princeton University Press. 2005.

Yushkova, Anastasia. Alexandr Igmand: “Yaodeval Brezhneva…”. Moskva: Novoe Literaturnoe Obozrenie, 2008.

Zhilina, Liudmila and Natalia Frolova. Problema potrebleniay i vospitaniay lichnoste. Moskva: Mysl', 1969.




DOI: 10.6092/issn.2611-0563/8230

Refbacks

  • There are currently no refbacks.


Copyright (c) 2018 Iuliia Papushina, Roman Abramov

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.