Shifting Paradigms Impact of Technology on the diffusion of trends

Autori

  • Giuppy d’Aura Istituto Marangoni School of Fashion

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/11787

Parole chiave:

Fashion, Sales-data, Trends, Trickle-down, Bubble-up

Abstract

Since the very first studies on fashion and consumption, fashion has been conceived as a very specific pattern of imitation imbricated with Modern societies, bourgeoisie and the new models of conspicuous consumption ignited by the industrial revolution. Fashion was perceived as a trickle-down system originated by the elites and subsequently adopted by the lower classes. It is only in the second half of the XX Century that intellectuals such as Ted Polhemus, suggest alternative models in order to explain the diffusion of trends such as the bubble-up model. This essay aims to update the theory of the trickle-down diffusion of trends and re-consider it as the most suitable model hitherto. Moreover, it will be analysed a fundamental question: what is happening to the diffusion of trends in the era of mechanisation, over-production and increased speed? And what will it happen in the near future? The impact of such innovations is not to be overlooked as they exert considerable pressure over the fashion business by re-directing the individual choices of contemporary clients. The aim of this essay is precisely to get closer to try an explanation of these evolutions.

Riferimenti bibliografici

Amed, Imran, Anita Balchandani, Marco Beltrami, Achim Berg, Saskia Hedrich, and Felix Rölkens. The State of Fashion 2019. BoF and McKinsey & Company, 2019

Blumer, Herbert. “Fashion: From class differentiation to collective selection.” Sociological Quarterly, Vol.10 n.3 (June 1969): 275–291 https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1533-8525.1969.tb01292.x.

Bourdieu, Pierre. Distinction: A Social Critique Of The Judgement Of Taste. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1984.

Fiore, Ann Marie, Eundeok Kim and Hyejeong Kim. Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting. London: Bloomsbury, 2013.

Frisa, Maria Luisa. Le Forme Della Moda. Bologna: Il Mulino, 2015.

Holland, Gwyneth and Rae Jones. Fashion Trend Forecasting. London: Laurence King Publishing, 2017.

Maslow, Abraham. Motivation and Personality. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1954.

Polhemus, Ted. Streetstyle: from Sidewalk to Catwalk. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd. 1994.

Polhemus, Ted. Fashion and Anti-fashion. Lulu.com, 2011.

Simmel, Georg. “Fashion.” In Fashion Marketing: An Anthology of Viewpoints and Perspectives, edited by Gordon Wills and David Midgley in Association with Martin Christopher and Roy Hayhurst. London: Allen and Unwin, 1973.

Svendsen, Lars. Fashion, A Philosophy. Translated by John Irons. London: Reaktion Books, 2006.

Veblen, Thorstein. The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions. Introduction John Kenneth Galbraith. Boston: MA Houghton Mifflin, 1973.

Vejlgaard, Henrik. Anatomy of a trend. Confetti Publishing Inc. 2012.

Camurati, F. “EY, moda e lusso hanno bisogno di ristrutturare l’offerta.” MFfashion, August 28, 2020. Accessed on 24th September 2020. Available at https://mffashion.com/news/livestage/ey-moda-e-lusso-hannobisogno-di-ristrutturare-l-offerta-202007211039286661.

Cordero, Robert. “Li Edelkoort: ‘Fashion is Old Fashioned’.” Business of Fashion, December 5, 2016. Accessed on 24th September 2020. Available at https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/voices/li-edelkoort-anti-fashion-manifesto-fashion-is-old-fashioned.

Edelkoort, Li. “Anti-Fashion: A manifesto for the next decade.” Business of Fashion, 2015. Accessed on 24th September 2020. Available at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LV3djdXfimI&list=WL&index=3.

Mallevays, Pierre. “Burberry: From Plough Horse to Thoroughbred?” Business of Fashion, July 11, 2011. Accessed on 24th September 2020. Available at https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/op-ed-burberry-from-plough-horse-to-thoroughbred.

Paton, Elizabeth. “Burberry to Stop Burning Clothing and Other Goods It Can’t Sell.” New York Times, September 6, 2018. Accessed on 24th September 2020. Available at https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/06/business/burberry-burning-unsold-stock.html#:~:text=LONDON%20%E2%80%94%20When%20the%20British%20luxury,maintain%20its%20%E2%80%9Cbrand%20value.%E2%80%9D.

Shannon, Sarah. “Can Burberry Get Back on Track?” Business of Fashion, September 15, 2017. Accessed on 24th September 2020. Available at https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/professional/how-can-burberry-get-back-on-track.

Pubblicato

2020-12-22

Come citare

d’Aura, G. (2020). Shifting Paradigms Impact of Technology on the diffusion of trends. ZoneModa Journal, 10(2), 119–129. https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/11787