Clothing as a Vehicle of Gender Stereotypes. The Case of Cary Grant

Abstract

The construction of a star’s image is a complex process, and one element that plays a fundamental role in this is clothing. Cary Grant, a legendary actor of classic Hollywood cinema, is remembered not only for his acting but also for his impeccable style and elegant wardrobe. However, what sets Grant apart is the fact that his clothing choices, particularly those linked to his on-screen roles, often challenged traditional gender stereotypes, making new statements about the intersection of fashion, identity, and expectations. In examining Grant’s filmography, we can observe that his on-screen wardrobe intentionally diverged from conventional norms, challenging not only the established notions of men’s clothing but also the traditional associations with power and status. In movies such as Holiday (1938), directed by George Cukor, Grant often wore outfits that are in contrast with his character’s actions. In this movie, Grant portrays a wealthy businessman who challenges the expectations of high society. He rebels against the norms imposed by his bride-to-be, engaging in childish activities with his future sister-in-law. The juxtaposition of his appearance and his rebellious personality challenges the expectation that men should always present themselves as serious and composed. In other movies, such as Bringing Up Baby (1938), directed by Howard Hawks, Grant wore female pieces of clothing. He plays a paleontologist who is forced to wear a woman's dress. While the initial use of cross-dressing serves a comedic purpose, it evolves into an exploration of gender identity. Initially, the act of wearing a dress is met with reluctance and awkwardness. However, as the character becomes more comfortable with this unconventional attire, a newfound confidence is reflected in both his demeanor and movements. The use of cross-dressing in movies has a rich history, often employed for comedic effect. However, in Grant's performances, it transcends mere humor to become a vehicle for exploring deeper themes of gender fluidity and identity. Cary Grant’s public image was intricately tied to his personal life and clothing choices, making his style not only a personal statement but also a key component of the public imagery associated with him. Beyond the screen, his fashion sense became iconic, influencing the perception of masculinity and style during his time. This opens to new analyses of the role of clothing in gender expression and performance in cinema, as Grant’s deliberate deviations from societal norms prompt a reconsideration of the relationship between attire, identity, and societal expectations. In view of this, it is possible to argue that Grant's on-screen sartorial choices challenged the status quo and, at the same time, invited the audience to question pre-conceived notions of gender roles. 

It is for this reason that the paper, using the methodology of fashion theories, focus on the actor’s ability to seamlessly integrate unconventional clothes into his roles to demonstrate a blended understanding of fashion’s potential as a tool for social expression and commentary. The aim will therefore be to demonstrate that Cary Grant not only left an indelible mark on film history, but also contributed to a broader conversation on the intersection of identity and style.