Emilio Federico Schuberth: Intermediality Practices between Fashion, Cinema and Television

Authors

  • Dorothea Burato Università degli Studi di Bari Aldo Moro

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/17943

Keywords:

Emilio Federico Schuberth, Made in Italy, Cinema, Television, Intermediality

Abstract

The essay investigates Emilio Federico Schuberth’s work and his relationship with cinema and television. As one of the most important fashion designers of the Made in Italy, protagonist of Roman social life and costume chronicles, Schuberth has been the first to draw the attention of the press and public opinion to the fashion designer, a new protagonist of show business, cinema and culture. During the 1950s Schuberth built a system of “integrated promotion” between fashion, film, press and television: he created his own personal style, he dressed the most famous Italian and international actresses, he opened his atelier to the cinema industry, he played himself in films and participated in television programs. Schuberth understood the communicative importance of the media system and implemented a communication strategy based on intermediality. The essay describes the methodology of the research, the type of archival sources considered and the use of an interdisciplinary approach, which allowed for a greater understanding of one of the most interesting and least studied figures in Italian high fashion.

References

Anonimo. “Dieci modelli per Sophia Loren.” Grazia, XXIX, 780 (29 gennaio 1956): 16–17.

Bianchino, Gloria, ed. Italian Fashion Designing. 1945–1980. Parma: University of Parma, 1987.

Bianchino, Gloria and Arturo Carlo Quintavalle. Moda. Dalla fiaba al design. Novara: De Agostini, 1989.

Buckley, Réka. “Glamour and the Italian female film stars of the 1950s.” Historical Journals of Film, Radio and Television, 28 (2008): 267–289. https://doi.org/10.1080/01439680802230688.

Calanca, Daniela and Neri Fadigati. “Giovanni Battista Giorgini. From Artistic Craftmanship to High Fashion, Italian Soft Power.” ZoneModa Journal, 11.1S (2021). https://zmj.unibo.it/issue/view/1001.

Fiorentini Capitani, Aurora. La moda italiana anni Cinquanta e Sessanta. Firenze: Cantini, 1991.

Frisa, Maria Luisa, Anna Mattirolo and Stefano Tonchi, eds. Bellissima. L’Italia dell’alta moda 1945–1968. Milano–Roma: Electa–MAXXI, 2014.

Giacomotti, Fabiana. La tv alla moda. Stile e star nella storia della Rai. Cinisello Balsamo: Silvana Editoriale, 2014.

Giordani Aragno, Bonizza. Lo spettacolo della moda. Emilio Federico Schuberth. Napoli: Fondazione Mondragone, 2004.

Grasso, Aldo. Storia critica della televisione italiana (1954–1979). Milano: Il saggiatore, 2019.

Malossi, Giannino. La Sala Bianca. Nascita della moda italiana. Milano: Electa, 1992.

Manzini, Gianna. “Il vestito e l’auto.” La fiera letteraria, 31 maggio 1953. In La moda di Vanessa, 91–95. Palermo: Sellerio Editore, 2003.

Martin, Sara. L’abito necessario. Fili, trame e costumi nel cinema e nella televisione. Parma: Diabasis, 2022.

Morin, Edgar. The stars. New York: Evergreen profile books, 1961.

Pagliai, Letizia. La Firenze di Giovanni Battista Giorgini. Artigianato e moda fra Italia e Stati Uniti. Firenze: Edifir, 2011.

Paulicelli, Eugenia. Italian Style. Fashion & Film from Early Cinema to the Digital Age. New York and London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2016.

Paulicelli, Eugenia, Drake Stutesman and Luis Wallenberg, eds. Film, Fashion and the 1960s. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2017.

Quiriglio, Michele. “Schuberth veste le dive.” Cinema, IX, 168 (16 giugno 1956): 286–88.

Rees-Roberts, Nick. “The Master Narrative: Authorship, Fame, and Failure in the Designer Fashion Film.” In The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies, edited by Eugenia Paulicelli et al., 371–81. New York–Oxon: Routledge, 2022.

Soli, Pia. Il genio antipatico. Creatività e tecnologia nella moda italiana 1951–1983. Milano: Mondadori, 1984.

YouTube. “E. Schuberth e Mario Riva — Il Musichiere.” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BqedkMYvow.

Downloads

Published

2023-10-26

How to Cite

Burato, D. (2023). Emilio Federico Schuberth: Intermediality Practices between Fashion, Cinema and Television. ZoneModa Journal, 13(1S), 49–63. https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/17943

Issue

Section

Invited Essays