Culture and Sustainability: An Interplay on the New Made in Italy Landscape
Keywords:Born-sustainable, Earth Logic, Holistic Approach, Fashion and Sustainability, Italian Context
The current global interest and urge to propose alternatives to the predominant super-polluting and non-ethical fashion system require major attention to the unconventional fashion production models. Sustainable start-ups are often analysed as both circular systems and devices to re-activate local crafts, pointing toward not only the environmentally-friendly practices but also underlying the need to take better care of people, both as workers and consumers. However, little to no research is dedicated to the assessment of the holistic approach to sustainability of these born-responsible fashion entities. The analysis adopts the Earth Logic Fashion Action Research Plan (2019) framework by Kate Fletcher and Mathilda Tham and critically examines 60 born-sustainable brands in the Italian context. Through the analysis, it will be presented and discussed that born-sustainable does not imply a holistic approach, nor does it guarantee attention to the often-wrongly-separated environmental, social and cultural aspects of the sustainable agency.
Ang, Ien. “Beyond the Crisis: Transitioning to a better world?.” Cultural Studies, 35: 2–3 (March, 2021): 598–615. https://doi.org/10.1080/09502386.2021.1898013.
Black, Sandy. Eco-chic: The Fashion Paradox. London: Black Dog Publishing Ltd, 2008.
Black, Sandy, Amy de la Haye, Joanne Entwistle, Agnès Rocamora, Regina A. Root, and Helen Thomas. The Handbook of Fashion Studies. London: Bloomsbury, 2013.
Cartiera. “Chi siamo.” Last accessed October 31, 2022. https://www.coopcartiera.it/en/chi-siamo-2/.
Cartiera. “Ethics.” Last accessed October 31, 2022. https://www.coopcartiera.it/en/ethics/.
CASAGiN. “Made in Italy.” Last accessed November 2nd, 2022. https://www.casagin.com/made-italy/.
Cova, Bernard. “Conclusione. Il Made in Italy: dopo i capitani d’industria e i creativi, gli artigiani?” In Il made in Italy, edited by Ampelio Bucci, Vanni Codeluppi e Mauro Ferraresi, 137–144. Roma: Carocci editore, 2011.
de Castro, Orsola. Loved Clothes Last: How the Joy of Rewearing and Repairing Your Clothes Can Be a Revolutionary Act. London: Penguin Books Limited, 2021.
de la Bellacasa, María Puig. Matters of Care Speculative Ethics in More Than Human Worlds. Minneapolis–London: University of Minnesota Press, 2017.
Demirel, Pelin, Li Qian Cher, Rentocchini Francesco and Tamvada J. Pawan. “Born to be green: new insights into the economics and management of green entrepreneurship.” Small Business Economy, 52 (2019): 759–771. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11187-017-9933-z.
Dicuonzo, Grazia, Graziana Galeone, Simona Ranaldo and Mario Turco. “The Key Drivers of Born-Sustainable Businesses: Evidence from the Italian Fashion Industry.” Sustainability, 12, n.24 (2020): 10237. https://doi.org/10.3390/su122410237.
Ditty Sarah, Ciara Barry, Liv Simpliciano and Delphine Williot. The Fashion Transparency Index 2021. Fashion Revolution CIC 2021. (July 2021).
Farley Gordon, Jennifer and Colleen Hill. Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present and Future. London–New York: Bloomsbury, 2015.
Fletcher, Kate and Londa Grose. Fashion & Sustainability Design for Change. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd, 2012.
Fletcher, Kate and Mathilda Tham. Earth Logic Fashion Action Research Plan. London: The JJ Charitable Trust. 2021 (2019).
Fletcher, Kate and Mathilda Tham (edited by). Routledge Handbook of Sustainability and Fashion. London–New York: Routledge, 2015.
Fletcher, Kate. Craft of Use: Post-Growth Fashion. New York: Routledge, 2016.
Fletcher, Kate. Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys. London: Earthscan, 2008.
Gwilt, Alison, Alice Payne, and Anicet Rüthschilling. Global Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion. London–New York: Bloomsbury Visual Art, 2019.
Gwilt, Alison and Timo Rissanen (edited by). Shaping Sustainable Fashion: Changing the Way We Make and Use Clothes. London–New York: Routledge, 2011.
Golden Goose. “Yatay model.” Last accessed on October 31st, 2022. https://www.goldengoose.com/it/it/stories/yatay-model-1b.html?nls=true.
Hall, Stuard. “The West and the Rest: Discourse and Power.” In Formations of Modernity, edited by Stuard Hall and Bram Gieben. Cambridge–Oxford: Polity Press, 1992.
Haraway, Donna J. Staying with the Trouble: Making Kin in the Chthulucene. Durham–London: Duke University Press, 2016.
Henninger, Claudia E., Panayiota J. Alevizou and Caroline J. Oates. “What is Sustainable Fashion?” Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management Vol. 20 n.4 (2016): 400–416. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-07-2015-005.
Hethorn, Janet and Connie Ulasewicz (edited by). Sustainable Fashion: What’s Next? A Conversation About Issues, Practices, and Possibilities. New York: Fairchild Books, 2015.
ID.EIGHT. “Sostenibilità.” https://www.id-eight.com/sostenibilita/.
Kallis, Giorgos, Susan Paulson, Giacomo D’Alisa and Federico Demaria. The Case for Degrowth. Cambridge–Medford: Polity Press, 2020.
Kent, Sarah. “BoF Sustainability Index 2021. The Sustainability Gap, How Fashion Measures Up.” Business of Fashion, March 22, 2021. https://www.businessoffashion.com/reports/sustainability/measuring-fashions-sustainability-gap-download-the-report-now/.
Kerdon. Thomas. “Cultures of Sustainability in the Fashion Industry.” Fashion Theory, Vol. 24 iss.5 (2018) 715–742. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2018.1532737.
Klein, Naomi. This Changes Everything: Capitalism vs. the Climate. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2014.
Kozlowski, Anika, Cory Searcy, Michal Bardecki. “Innovation for a Sustainable Fashion Industry: A Design Focused Approach Toward the Development of New Business Models.” Green Fashion: Volume 2, edited by Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu and Miguel Angel Gardetti. Singapore: Springer 2016.
Lunghi, Carla and Eugenia Montagnini. La moda della responsabilità. Milan: FrancoAngeli s.r.l., 2007.
Maksimova, Nadica. “Thoughts on: The Anti-fashion — Deconstruction Revisited.” ZoneModa Journal, Vol.10 n.1 (July 2020): 135–142. https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/11284.
Meadows, Donella. Thinking in Systems: A Primer. London: Chelsea Green Pub., 2008.
Meadows, Donella H., Dennis L. Meadows, Jørgen Randers and William W. Behrens III. The Limits to Growth. a Report for the Club of Rome’s Project on the Predicament of Mankind. New York: Universe Books, 1972.
Miller, Toby. Greenwashing Culture. London–New York: Routledge, 2018.
Morace, Francesco (edited by). Estetiche Italiane, Italian Ways. Le sei tendenze del Made in Italy e la loro influenza nel mondo. Milan: Libri Scheiwiller, 2004.
Moschino advertisement. Vogue Italia. Iss. 499, March 1992, 135.
Moschino advertisement. Vogue Italia. Iss. 506, October 1992, 133.
Moschino advertisement. Vogue Italia. Iss. 510, February 1993, 91.
Mower, Sarah. “Katharine Hamnett, London’s Activist Fashion Warrior, Is Back With a Sustainable Buy-Now Collection.” Vogue.com. Last accessed July 25, 2022. https://www.vogue.com/article/katharine-hamnett-launches-sustainable-buy-now-collection.
Nevertoomuchbasic NTMB. “About.” Last accessed October 31, 2022. https://ntmb.it/it/pages/about-us.
Payne, Alice. Designing fashion’s future: Present Practice and Tactics for Sustainable Change. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2021.
Piancazzo, Flavia. “Visions of non-Western Fashion.” ZoneModa Journal, Vol.11 n.2 (2021): 163–167. https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13850.
Quid. “Quid Factory.” Last accessed October 31, 2022. https://www.quidorg.it/quid-factory/.
Rafagni, Silvia and Simona Guercini. “Beyond Appearances: The Hidden Meanings of Sustainable Luxury.” Handbook of Sustainable Luxury Texile and Fashion Volume 2 (edited by) Miguel Angel Gardetti and Subramanian Senthikannan Muthu. Singapore: Springer Science+Business Media, 2016.
Rifò. “Nei nostri panni.” Last accessed October 31, 2022. https://rifo-lab.com/pages/nei-nostri-panni.
Rinaldi, Francesca Romana. Fashion Industry 2030: Reshaping the Future Through Sustainability and Responsible Innovation. Milano: Egea, 2020.
Rinaldi, Francesca Romana e Salvo Testa. L’impresa moda responsabile. Milano: Egea, 2013.
Sartoria Vico. “This is how we do it.” Last accessed on November 2nd, 2022. https://www.sartoriavico.it/pages/this-is-how-we-do-it.
Sheth, Jagdish N., Nirmal K. Sethia, Shanthi Srinivas. “Mindful consumption: a customer-centric approach to sustainability.” Journal of the Academy of Marketing Science, 39 (2011): 21–39. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11747-010-0216-3.
Sisodia, Nidhi and M. S. Parmar. “Converting Texile Waste into Designer Wall and Floor Titles: A New Approach to Recycle Textile Waste.” In Sustainable Approaches in Textiles and Fashion: Circular Economy and Microplastic Pollution. Singapore: Springer Singapore, 2022.
Subramaniam, Tara. “Global population hits 8 billion as growth poses more challenges for the planet.” CNN. November 15, 2022. https://edition.cnn.com/2022/11/15/world/global-population-8-billion-un-intl-hnk/index.html.
Teeshare. Last accessed October 31t, 2022. https://teeshare.com/.
Tham, Mathilda. “Languaging fashion and sustainability: Towards synergistic modes of thinking, wording, visualising and doing fashion and sustainability.” Nordic Textile Journal, 3 (1) (2010): 14–23. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:lnu:diva-33453.
Thomas, Sue. Fashion Ethics. London. Taylor & Francis Group, 2017.
Todeschini, Bruna Villa, Marcelo Nogueira Cortimiglia, Daniela Callegaro-de-Menezes and Antonio Ghezzi. “Innovative and Sustainable Business Models in the Fashion Industry: Entrepreneurial Drivers, Opportunities, and Challenges.” Business Horizons, Vol.60, n.6 (2017): 759–770. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bushor.2017.07.003.
Waxman Brothers. “About us.” Last accessed October 31, 2022. https://waxmanbrothers.com/pages/about-us.
Ling, Wessie, Mariella Lorusso and Simona Segre-Reinach. “Critical Studies in Global Fashion.” ZoneModa Journal, Vol.9 n.2 (2019): V–XVI, https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/10066.
Whitty, Jennifer. “Fashion Systems of Earth Logic and Transition for This Time and Space.” Fashion, Style and Popular Culture, Vol. 8 n.4 (March 2021): 355–375.
Yatay. “Responsible Journey.” Last accessed October 31, 2022. https://www.yatayatay.com/eu/responsible-journey.
“Alexander McQueen F/W 2009 ready-to-wear.” Vogue.com. Last accessed November 2nd, 2022. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen.
“Good Clothes, Fair Pay Europe” campaign. Last accessed October 29, 2022. https://www.goodclothesfairpay.eu/.
“Jean Paul Gaultier’s S/S 1994 Ready-to-wear.” Vogue.com. Last accessed November 2nd, 2022. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-1994-ready-to-wear/jean-paul-gaultier.
“Sorting for cicrcularity Europe. An evaluation and commercial assessment of texile waste across Europe.” Fashion for Good Project. September 2022. https://reports.fashionforgood.com/report/sorting-for-circularity-europe/acknowledgements?reportid=888.
How to Cite
Copyright (c) 2022 Nadica Maksimova, Flavia Piancazzo
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.