From cronista to directora de moda: The Birth and Evolution of the Role of Fashion Editor in the Women's Press in Spain
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/14886Keywords:
Círculo de Escritores de la Moda, Journalism, Francoism, Spanish Fashion, Sofía Torga de CarunchoAbstract
This research falls within the framework of studies on fashion journalism and the women’s press in Spain. During the 1930s the previously unknown professional role of fashion editor began to take shape in the American media: a position whose main activity was no longer directly linked to writing and which was implicitly associated with the photographed image. In Spain, where fashion reporting had not yet been professionalised into such specific positions, women’s publications consolidated the practice of including journalists in their staff, writing being their main activity. Adopting a comparative perspective across a series of newspapers from the Francoist period and through a methodological approach that combines the use of oral and newspaper sources, this article focuses on describing the birth of the role of fashion editor in the Spanish context. Our research starts with the columnists of the illustrated press of the early 20th century, goes through the journalists affiliated to the Círculo de Escritores de la Moda [Circles of Fashion Writers] in the 1960s, and concludes with Sofía Torga de Caruncho’s appointment at Telva and the institutionalisation of the “directora de moda” position.
References
Abellanosa, Julia. “Éxito de la confección española.” Telva, April 1, 1964.
Abellanosa, Julia. “Ideas para el ajuar.” Telva, April 1, 1964.
Albert, Concha. “Josefina Figueras Presidente del Círculo Escritores de la Moda en Madrid.” Telva, December 1, 1976.
“Año nuevo vida nueva: Galería de colaboradores.” La Moda en España, January–February, 1963.
Arnold, Rebecca. American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930’s and 1940’s New York. London: Tauris, 2009.
Baixeras, Federico. “Michael Wray y la fotografía de moda en la España de la transición (1975–1985).” PhD diss., Universidad Complutense de Madrid, 2019.
Bueso, Roberta and Mónica Codina. La democratización de la moda en España: Telva 1963–1975. Pamplona: Eunsa, 2020
Cabré, M. Ángeles. María Luz Morales, pionera del periodismo. Barcelona: La Vanguardia, 2017.
Caprile, Lorenzo. “Flora Villareal y Sofía Torga: españolas en la moda.” YouTube Video. September 18, 2017. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fd0Fp9eWLaY.
Clares, Emma. “Chanel pase de colección en Madrid.” Telva, November 1, 1971.
Clarke, Philip. “Stylist: Etymology and History of a Role.” In Fashion Stylists: History, Meaning and Practice, edited by Ane Lynge-Jorlén, 21–39. London-New York: Bloomsbury, 2020.
“Constitución del Círculo de Escritores de la Moda.” ABC, March 8, 1963.
“Convocatoria del premio Visón de Plata 1971.” ABC, December 1, 1971.
Di Febo, Giuliana. “Spanish women’s clothing during the long post-civil war period.” In Accessorizing the body, edited by Cristina Giorcelli and Paula Rabinowitz, 126–147. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2011.
Dwight, Eleanor. Diana Vreeland. New York: Harper Design, 2011.
Edwards, J. P. “New Roles for Spanish Women.” Cosmopolitan, October, 1964.
Figueras, Josefina. “María Luz Morales: Cincuenta años informando sobre moda.” Telva, September 1, 1975.
Fontana, Nieves. “Homenaje a Sofía Torga… y toda una artista.” Telva, May, 2016.
Ganzabal, María. “Nacimiento, evolución y crisis de la prensa femenina contemporánea en España.” Ámbitos, Vol. 15 (2006): 405–420. https:/doi.org/10.12795/Ambitos.2006.i15.21.pdf.
García, Mercedes. “Moda en el rastro.” Telva, November 15, 1970.
Gauthier, Guy. Veinte lecciones sobre la imagen y el sentido. Madrid: Cátedra, 1992.
Gennaioli, Daniele. “Elizabeth Howell Buckley, Aline Romanones y el oficio de Madrid editor para Harper’s Bazaar y Vogue. Estrategias y modelos utilizados en el proceso de construcción de una identidad internacional para la moda española (1952–1975).” PhD diss., Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, 2021.
Gimeno, Javier. “Restructuring Plans for the Textile and Clothing Sector in Post-industrial Belgium and Spain.” Fashion Practice 3, Vol. 2 (2011): 197–224. https://doi.org/10.2752/175693811X13080607764818. 2011
Harrison, Elizabeth. “Editors Who Never Write Staff Fashion Magazines.” New York Times, June 21, 1956. https://www.nytimes.com/1956/06/21/archives/editors-who-never-write-staff-fashion-magazines-interested-in.html.
Hinojosa, María Paz. La persuasión en la prensa femenina: análisis de las modalidades de la enunciación. Madrid: Vision Libros, 2007.
“Los escritores de la moda visitan las factorías del complejo textil de género de punto Menguado ‘Mall-Cot’.” ABC, January 22, 1964.
“Luna nueva.” Telva, May 15, 1966.
“4 Maletas para el verano.” Telva, July 1, 1969.
Miller, Sanda and Peter McNeil. Fashion Journalism: History, Theory, and Practice. New York: Bloomsbury, 2018.
Mirabella, Grace and Judith Warner. In and out of Vogue. New York: Doubleday, 1995.
Morales, Sofía. “Crónica de Madrid.” La Voz de Almería, December 29, 1963.
Mower, Sarah and Raúl Martínez, eds. Stylist: The interpreters of fashion. New York: Rizzoli, 2007.
“Mujeres en la Moda.” Telva, June 1, 1970.
Nelson Best, Kate. History of Fashion Journalism. London: Bloomsbury, 2017.
O’Shea, Covadonga. “Periodistas en la Alhambra.” Telva, April 15, 1964.
O’Shea, Covadonga. “Telva recibe cuatro Premios Loewe de prensa.” Telva, December 15, 1974.
Rosendorf, Neal M. Franco sells Spain to America: Hollywood, Tourism and Public Relations as Postwar Spanish Soft Power. Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, 2014.
Rosés, Sílvia. “Spanish Couture: In the Shadow of Cristóbal Balenciaga.” Fashion Theory (2020). https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2020.1770399.
Ruíz, María del Rosario. “Nuevos horizontes para las mujeres de los años 60: la ley de 22 de julio de 1961.” Arenal 2, Vol. 2 (1995): 247–268.
Russi, Débora and Alessandra Vaccari. “La relazione tra Stati Uniti e Italia nell’origine dello stilista: tentativo di definizione di un termine.” In Proceedings CIMODE 2018, edited by Ana C. Broega et al., 88–96. Portugal: Universidade do Minho, 2018.
Sánchez, Juan Miguel. Revistas ilustradas en España. Del romanticismo a la guerra civil. Gijon: Trea, 2008.
Sánchez, María F. “Evolución de las publicaciones femeninas en España. Localización y análisis.” Documentación De Las Ciencias De La Información, Vol.31 (2009): 217–244.
Seebohm, Caroline. The man who was Vogue: the life and times of Condé Nast. London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1982.
Steele, Valerie, ed. Berg Companion to Fashion. Oxford; New York: Berg, 2010.
“Telva entre bastidores.” Telva, October 1, 1964.
Torga, Sofía and Montse Cuesta. “Así visten…las periodistas de moda.” Telva, May 1, 1988.
Torga, Sofía. “Charla en Roma con Mila Schön.” Telva, September 1, 1969.
Torga, Sofía. “La moda nace todos los días en el Corte Inglés.” Telva, May 1, 1967.
Torga, Sofía. “Ya no hay secretos: Avances de las colecciones.” Telva, August 15, 1967.
Vernon, Kathleen M. “Women, Fashion, and the Spanish Civil War From the Fashion Parade to the Victory Parade.” In Fashioning Spain: From Mantillas to Rosalía, edited by Francisco Fernández De Alba and Marcela T. Garcés, 85–102. London-New York: Bloomsbury, 2021.
Villanueva, María P. “La moda femenina en las publicaciones periódicas: Blanco y Negro (1891–1910).” PhD diss., Universitat de València, 2016.
Vreeland, Alexander. Memos: The Vogue years, 1962–1971. New York: Rizzoli, 2013.
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2022 Daniele Gennaioli, Paloma Díaz Soloaga, María Villanueva Cobo del Prado
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.