The Celebration of Heritage in Soviet Fashion: the Case of the Perm Fashion House

Iuliia Papushina; Roman Abramov

doi:10.6092/issn.2611-0563/8230

Authors

Iuliia Papushina National Research University Higher School of Economics, Perm
She is a Candidate of Science in Sociology and an Associate Professor of National Research University Higher School of Economics (Perm). Her field of expertise is participation in arts, sociology of fashion, and mind mapping in education. She teaches Consumer Behavior and Business Research Methods. She was a producer of the photo exhibition titled "Defile in Soviet Way" represented the photos of fashion defiles 1964 - 1990 from State Archive of Perm Region and personal archives of Perm photographers, March - April, 2017. She has publications in cultural consumption, fashion in the context of cultural consumption and measurement of attitude to participation in arts.
Roman Abramov National Research University Higher School of Economics, Moscow
He is a Candidate of Science in Sociology and Associate Professor in the Analysis of Social Institutions Department, National Research University Higher School of Economics. He is also a senior researcher at Federal Center of Theoretical and Applied Sociology of the Russian Academy of Sciences (FCTAS RAS). He specializes on the sociology of professions and social memory studies. He has publications about the transformation of the academic profession, postsoviet nostalgia and museum studies. He is visiting fellow CEU(Budapest), Helsinki University, Kennan Institute (Washington), EHESS (Paris)

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/8230

Keywords:

Soviet Past, Fashion Industry, Heritage, Folk-Based Style, Late Socialism

Abstract

The USSR created the largest system of fashion design in the Socialist world, but regional Soviet fashion houses have not attracted much attention from social science. This paper examines the cases of two designers from the Perm Fashion House and their experiments with heritage in fashion design. These designers can be viewed as representatives of different approaches to the application of traditional costume heritage in Soviet fashion. The findings of the paper reveals Soviet state legitimized limited part of the Pre-Revolution Russian cultural heritage namely folk decorative motifs and applied arts disregarding other kinds of heritage as sources for designers’ inspiration. In the Late Socialism period folk-inspired design was the top-down initiative promoted in design colleges, fashion magazines, but not available for mass production. The results also shows the designers creating collections for an inner market had more freedom than the ones designed for international trade events.

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The Celebration of Heritage in Soviet Fashion: the Case of the Perm Fashion House

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